One more week until Rainier!

Well a lot has happened since my last post.  I have gotten in shape from running and drinking lots of water.  I quit energy drinks, mocha's and I cut back on beer also.  For climbing partners Noe is flying in from Austin, Texas and also found another, much more experienced climber named Michael to join us.  With only one week left I am starting to get nervous about the dangers on Rainier and also about my strength.  We are planning to do a 3 day attempt up the standard route.  I am scared a little because it is going to get really tough in a matter of days; but I am also excited for the adventure and fun that awaits.  If I summit I will post a summit picture, and if I don't then I will do one final post and put my blog to sleep until the next big climb.

The Dangers!

Why do people climb?  The danger, mixed with being in an exotic place can be really exhilarating.  Being safe and coming home is one of the most exciting things about climbing.  Ed Viesturs from Seattle has a mantra, "Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory".  When  mountains are covered in snow they become very dangerous.  Combine that with high altitude and things become very dangerous.  Snow will cover crevasses (caves or cracks) and some climbers will have fatal falls. Some crevasses are hundreds of feet deep and a mile long.  Snow is basically water that is always shifting and moving.  It moves slower, but suddenly an avalanche or a serac (giant ice blocks) can crush climbers in a second.  Many climbers also get lost because they lose the trail.  Willow wands or markers help climbers stay on course during the decent.  Surprisingly many climbers don't use willow wands when climbing in the snow because they think its a nice sunny day.  Mountains are notorious for having afternoon storms, and many climber get caught and the trail gets covered with fresh snow.  Another factor to deal with, especially a bigger mountain like Mt. Rainier is altitude sickness.  Headaches and dehydration problems are usually normal, but occasional pulmonary edema, (fluid in the lungs) could occur, and the only remedy is to get down fast.  Altitude sickness is something that could happen to anyone at anytime, the only thing one could hope for is that someone is around who is capable of a rescue.  Here is a great video about the risks on Mt. Rainier by Ed Viesturs; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mt3mRvwmPQY.

Cited: Ed Viesturs Book. No Short Cuts to the Top.             
   

Setting up the logistics!

Rainier is a glacier mountain with many crevasses and seracs that make it very dangerous to climb. Setting up the correct logistics is very important and something I will be thinking about a lot. I still got a month in a half, but still I think its time to start discussing the plan with my climbing partner. First, we need to resersve a tent spot because the two possible routes we are doing are the most popular. Next will need to get all are gear and food organized. For the hardware, rope is a must, as well as a climbing harness, ice axe, crampons(spikes under the boots), and ski poles for walking. As for clothing the lighter the better, fleece is always my favorite for sleeping, and an outer waterproof jacket and pants for climbing. We will use small stoves for cooking and melting snow for drinking water. Beanies, gloves and gators will keep us warm and dry. After all the gear is ready, we will then set up a time schedule. Being on schedule makes climbing more enjoyable and safer.  So many people die in the mountains because they lose track of time and they get trapted in an afternoon storm or darkness. On summit day will most likely leave no later then 2am for the summit. Last but not least, being mentally prepared is crucial. Someone that is a great climber in great shape could fail if they are not mentally prepared.  I will repeat all the logistics many times in my head before I get to the mountain to ensure that I am prepared.     

Transportation!

Me and my climbing partner Noe, whom I have not met yet have decided that the best way to get to Mt. Rainier on July 16th would be to drive.  If my little brother goes or someone else we will need a bigger car, if not my little toyota truck shall work just fine for me and Noe.  When we get to Paradise we will need to purchase a parking pass from the ranger station which is fifteen dollars for the whole weekend.  On all my climbs, the ride to and from the mountain are some of the most enjoyable memories.  Its something about the unknown that lies ahead while listening to Bon Jovi, Living on a Prayer.  On return drive after you just survived a brush with death and you decend into heavier air,  the thought of a hot shower and a cold coke while listening to Kings of Leon, Use Somebody can be a surreal feeling.  I usually sit there with an ear to ear grin thinking about a bigger mountain to climb in the future.  In his book K2,  Ed Viesturs says; "Some of the most enjoyable parts of his expeditions is the trek to the mountain".  It make since because once I get to the mountain thats when the arduous work starts and the danger level rises.  

Quote from: Ed Viesturs. K2: Life and Death on the Worlds Most Dangerous Mountain

Picking a Date!

Since Rainier is going to take two days to climb, I needed to look ahead and plan for the time off from work.  Since I work 31 hours every weekend, I knew it would not be an easy task to just tell both of my bosses on a Monday, "hey I need this weekend off ".  Plus Rainier is a mountain that I want to be mentally prepared for.  In No Short Cuts to the Top Ed Viesturs talks about how one climber on Rainier was last quoted saying "Its only Rainier" after ignoring Ed's attempt to turn him around.  Moments later the man went sailing past Ed's party down an icy slop to his death.  So all in all I want to be prepared for and make sure I find a partner, or partners that are in decent shape and who are committed to a weekend to try and climb Rainier.  As of now I have met one partner online at Cascade Climbers.com who has picked July 16 and 17.  I totally agree with that date since I heard July is when the best weather is.  I like that Noe is enthusiastic and I really like how we email each other every couple of days.  We are also trying to find one or two more climbing partners to make our team stronger.  My little brother Jamie is an option, but he won't know until July 1st. But as it stands now, July 16 and 17 are the days I will try to summit Rainier.  

Introduction

My name is Jordan Halas, and the theme of my blog is my goal to climb Mt. Rainier this summer.  I went to Nepal for two months last August and find mountaineering to be really fun.  I want to summit Rainier at least once this summer.  I believe that I am strong enough to get to the top only if the weather cooperates.  I will write about my training, gear,  the struggles finding a partner, logistics of the climb, and of possible dates.  Being from the mojave desert in Southern California I always looked up to the surrounding Los Angeles mountains in amazement.  Growing up I thought to myself would it be possible to climb the big 10,000 foot Mt. Baldy.  I did eventually climb it when I was twenty four.  My goal for the next five years would be to climb Mt. Mckinley, graduate college, and climb Rainier at least 5 times.  My life goals include raising a family, having a career, attempting the east ridge of Annapurna in Nepal, and to buy a new car or dirt bike someday.  I think being a teacher would be a good job for me, I think its rewarding, respected as career, and with summers off hopefully i could go on vacation to a tropical island or mountain somewhere.  As of today, I enjoy school, working, having an occasional beer, slot car racing on Fridays, and getting ready for Rainier.  If anyone would like to contact me, my email is; halas_jordan_4414@yahoo.com    

First Step, taking it easy

One of the first things I have to do if I am gonna have any chance of summited Rainier is get back into shape. I started running a 1.5 mile strip of dirt that goes along the puget sound on the back side of west Seattle. Near the end of my run there is a steep trail that burns my legs. I can't wait to suprise a friend on this route, because in the beginning it is flat and easy with a million dollar view, but then at the end the hills steepness really tests the will. I like the hill because the inclined switchbacks remind me of the mountains.